Standing in the recently renovated cellars of Lanson, our host Philippe Baijot glanced over his shoulder as a staff member brought out another bottle of champagne for tasting. “I have a surprise for you” he stated, before presenting the bottle of 1979 Lanson Brut Vintage Collection to us. Such was the personal connections that we were able to make with the wonderful personalities in the champagne region, this particular visit was a result of an impromptu invitation from the head of the house the night before, and not part of the original itinerary.
Philippe is Deputy CEO and Director of Lanson-BCC, and the previous afternoon we had the pleasure of visiting another of their houses, Besserat de Bellefon. Prior to an indulgent evening of food and champagne we were given the opportunity to tour the premises, the clos and the cellars, with Godefroy Baijot, Export Manager. The cold, winding tunnels beneath the ground were a relief from the 39 degree heat outside and the history of the champagne region was evident with inscriptions in the walls and roof dating back to 1894.
Following a tasting of some of their finest champagnes on offer we were delighted to learn that we would be shortly partaking in a cooking class with Michelin star chef Jean-François Rouquette from the Park Hyatt in Paris, who had been brought in specifically for us. Personalised monogrammed aprons and chefs hats were distributed to our very excited group and we proceeded to make our own avocado wraps. They may not have looked exactly as they should, but they were oh so delicious. We were then treated to a four course dinner prepared by Chef Jean-François Rouquette and his team, each course paired with exquisite champagne. The whole afternoon and evening was such a rousing success that it led to the personal invitation from Philippe to visit Lanson the next afternoon (and the special treat of the 1979 Lanson Brut Vintage Collection was divine).
Such is Kyla Kirkpatrick’s (The Champagne Dame) reputation amongst the champagne houses and wine growers that her tours are filled with moments such as these. The houses visited are typically not open to the general public for tours or tastings, and no two tours are the same, being based on the availability of the wine makers.
Dressed in our finest, the group attended a black tie dinner at Taittinger’s Chateau de la Marquetterie. It was a night filled with amazing food, superb champagne and the delightful company of host Jean Pierre. The champagne was paired expertly with each course and as it flowed the conversation became hilarious and raucous. Only with The Champagne Dame’s relationship with this house could such a night progress with such fun and ease.
But it wasn’t just the large and well known houses that we were able to visit and enjoy tastings with. Over lunches and dinners the smaller growers, such as Jean-Marc Seleque of J.M Seleque, joined us for a meal and brought their champagnes with them for us to enjoy. Producing much smaller quantities per season, it is a privilege to be able to share their champagnes with them and learn more about their processes and the role the smaller growers play in Champagne.
The 17th century Chateau de Mairy was our home base for the five nights of the tour for our exclusive use. A rambling and rustic beauty, full of charm and filled with love, this was the perfect place to return and unwind to, whether sitting in the garden eating cheese and drinking champagne, playing a game of croquet, or going for a wander through the quaint village.
Our final day in Champagne culminated in the announcement that the region, and its crayeres (cellars) hillsides and houses had been UNESCO World Heritage Listed. Earlier in the week we had been fortunate to visit the crayeres of the oldest champagne house, Ruinart, which was founded in 1729. While descending to the depths of the chalk cellars, we weren’t sure whether we’d be able to view them, as there was a film crew down there preparing for the imminent announcement. They allowed us through though, and we were able to see these cellars that were the product of ancient chalk mining, dating back to the Roman empire.
I came away from this tour with not only with my head filled with more knowledge of champagne, its production and history, I also came away with a group of new friends and memories that will last a lifetime, and a taste for champagne that is going to cost me a fortune in the future.
The hospitality shown to us by the champagne houses we visited was beyond compare. Taittinger, Bollinger, Ruinart, Charles Heidsieck, Nicolas Feuillatte, Besserat de Bellefon, Lanson, Jacquart and the small growers who joined us for lunch and dinner. All were so welcoming and passed on their passion for Champagne to us.
To learn more about Kyla Kirkpatrick and her tours of the Champagne region, visit her at The Champagne Dame.
Avocado wrap! Looking forward to you showing me how to make this! xx
after cooking classes in Penang and Marrakesh there will be lots of new recipes when I return home!